Think about the best meal you’ve ever eaten. Not the most exclusive meal or the most expensive meal or the one when you were the hungriest and felt blessed to be sated. Instead, return to that moment of blissful synchronicity when all senses exploded in utter delight, when you became one with the earth, when the meaning of life became—momentarily—utterly evident. My guess, if you are honest, is that this meal consisted of something very simple—like fresh cherry tomatoes you couldn’t stop picking off the vine one summer in Canada, or apples you plucked from the trees near Northampton, Massachusetts, on a breezy fall day. Perhaps it was those chunks of pungent Parmigiano-Reggiano you purchased for a picnic in Parma, the wheel in the cheesemonger’s shop thankfully too big for you to pack in your carry-on. There’s a reason that farm to fork (sadly, now sometimes found in acronym form as “F2F”) became a thing. We’d lost our way, we global eaters. Even back in the 1990s, certain researchers began telling us how far our food traveled to get on our tables. Soon, the average mileage touted wa …