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Six Lessons from the Sea

Man with surfboard

Peter Dawson

After a couple of decades of surfing and traveling, and writing about surfing and traveling, these are six lessons that I use every day.

1. The struggle is the joy. Videos and films make surfers look like we’re always cruising around, carefree, on crystalline waves, no work involved. But extremely little of each surf session is spent actually standing up on your surfboard on a wave—maybe 1 percent. Most of the time you’re paddling until your shoulders feel like they’re being cattle-branded. If you’re looking to have a good time, it’s essential to find a way to enjoy paddling, or at least good-naturedly bear it. So surfing is life. The good stuff—chocolate and great sex and weddings and hilarious jokes—fills a minute portion of an adult lifespan. The rest of life is paddling: work, paying bills, flossing, getting sick, dying. But nobody ever found lasting joy from being fed beauty and riches and ease from a silver spoon. The sea has taught me that if I’m clear on where I’m going and why it’s good, the struggle is the joy. Plus, the burn helps you enjoy the good waves even more. 2. Celebrate. Let go. Because those exceptional waves come along only once in a blue moon, I think it’s important to celebrate them. Hoot, hig …

About the Author

Jaimal Yogis is the author of All Our Waves Are Water: Stumbling Toward Enlightenment and the Perfect Ride, just published by Harper Collins.

Click for more from this author.

This entry is tagged with:
Life LessonsSports and ExerciseWater

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