A Hawaii of Another Time
Deirdre Taylor

If you take the infamous Hana Highway, Hwy 16, along the eastern coast of Maui, you'll encounter some of the most spectacular scenery, and some of the most perilous driving conditions, to be found anywhere. The highway weaves its 52-mile way from Kahului Airport through the villages of Paia, Haiku, and Huelo, along dramatic cliffs, through bamboo forests, and past crashing surf, around 600 curves and over fifty one-lane bridges, eventually emerging, three breathless hours later, at the tiny village of Hana.

You might expect a place so difficult to reach to be special. And it is. For most people, however, the joy is in the journey. Once they reach the end of the road, bent on "doing Hana in a day," they grab a Coke, snap a couple of photos, and head back to the resorts on the more developed western part of the island. For those who choose to stay longer, however, Hana offers a rare glimpse of another Hawaii, a Hawaii of timeless beauty and mystical serenity, of deep culture and rare charm.

Perhaps it was because I am one of the few people to have slept through most of the drive there (something of a feat), that my first real experience of Hana itself was so powerful. Waking before dawn I watched the sun slowly bathe the Pacific Ocean in rainbows. I stood mesmerized as it rose through the early morning mist, climbing slowly between two palm trees at the base of the meadow down the hill from my balcony. The stressful remnants of city life melted away as the full splendor of my surroundings washed over me with the sun's light. I understood in that moment why Hawaiians consider Hana a sacred place.

The Divine blessed this part of Maui with a tropical abundance that even the recent drought couldn't hamper. Located on the windward side of the island, the cooler, more humid air has created a paradise for the pleasure of the local residents and those hardy souls who venture here and have the wisdom to stay. "A hidden Hawaii, a Hawaii of another time, where Mother Nature is still sensual and wild" is the eloquent description in a highly recommended guidebook, Frommer's Portable Maui.

The pace is out of another time and place. People wave. People stop and talk. At Hawegawa's General Store, which is the most happening place in town, people gather to share the news of the day, check out the immensely disorganized and colorful bulletin board, and shop for everything from beach hats to a carton of milk, from hammer and nails to fine French wine.

When I was there, preparations were underway for the celebration of the first birthday of a little Hawaiian girl named Harmony. In Hawaiian culture, new life is feted after a full year of healthy growing, and the child is welcomed at a festival attended by the whole community. "We cherish our young," I was told. "This child is the child of all of us, and will be raised by all of us."

Harmony's mother, whose name is Melody, teaches the Hawaiian language in Hana. She is passionate in her desire to preserve Hawaiian oral tradition and culture, a passion shared by most of the local residents. Festivals here are seldom staged for the benefit of tourists, but are born out of the spiritual tradition of a cherished, sometimes fiercely defended, ancient system of belief.

The Hana of today is a beaching, hiking, exploring, discovering experience, and for those who find adventure or solace in the great outdoors, Hana has it all -- multicolored beaches, ocean swells, mountains, waterfalls, hiking trails, historic sanctuaries, culture, art, and spiritual retreats.

Hana's coastline is rugged and parts are inaccessible by car, but if you're willing to walk, you'll be rewarded by spectacular vistas, shared only with a few birds and maybe some cows. You might even come across an ancient Hawaiian sanctuary, crudely made out of rocks, and sitting in some isolated and exposed point of land. Outcasts and criminals of old who could make it to one of these places were forgiven their sins. Those who could not, did not survive. Alone here, with the volcano behind you and the ocean crashing ahead of you, you can almost hear the echoes; you can almost feel the power of something so much greater than your own understanding, and imagine what it must have been like centuries ago.

I share author James A. Michener's opinion that Hana's black-sand Hamoa Beach is one of the most beautiful in the Pacific. If it is possible for a beach to cradle you, this one does.There's something about the way the curved lines of the beach meet the lush hillside behind, and the way the long line of palm trees wave gently at the rolling surf. The gleeful laughter of small children meets the delighted whoops of strong young surfers and the contented sighs of sunbathers as they relax under colorful umbrellas, giving the scene an unparalleled feeling of contentment.

Fortunately, this part of Maui has many wonderful beaches, each with its own character, and color. Red Sand Beach takes its name from a collapsed red cinder wall. Hawaiians call this Kaihalulu Beach, meaning "roaring sea," due to the natural whirlpool in the cove.Try snorkeling in the protected area, then looking back at the deep rust-colored sand and aquamarine waters shown off against its backdrop of black lava and deep green ironwood trees.

Hana Bay beach is the most accessible beach and its calm waters make it perfect for swimming and surfing. Next to the bay at Kauiki Hill, a tall red cinder cone rises 386 feet into the sky, the site of many battle' in ancient Hawaii. It was also the birthplace, in 1768, of Queen Kaahumanu, the third wife of King Kamehameha the Great. The queen became famous for rejecting the ancient Hawaiian kapu (taboo) system when she publicly sat down and ate with the men.

Hana is also known for its waterfalls. A rare oceanside waterfall and deep fresh-water swimming pool, known as Blue Pool, is an easy three- mile, round-trip hike. The trail passes the 122-acre Kahanu Garden, part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden and home to Hawaii's largest heiau (temple).The Piilanihale Heiau was built in the 15th century by one of Maui's greatest chiefs. Hawaiian chants tell how Piilani united the island of Maui and built fish ponds, irrigation fields, and even paved roads. His famous heiau is built in a terrace design unique in Hawaii.

Oheo Gulch or "Seven Sacred Pools" as it is commonly called (a misnomer since all water in Hawaii is considered sacred and there are actually 24 pools) is located at the far end of Hana at Haleakala National Park. At this special place, the water tumbles, cascades, and crashes through a dazzling series of waterfalls until it finally reaches the sea far below.

Much of the beauty of Hana for me was just being there -- days and niqhts of living life in another dimension. The days moved to a gentle rhythm -- nothing too hurried, and provided time for smelling the flowers (literally) and time to catch a glimpse of a tropical bird, and to wonder what the scrawny cows who inhabit the hillsides think about all day. Hana is a place that nurtures and restores you, then reluctantly returns you, along the same precarious, fabulous highway that brought you here, to the world from which you came. You are the same person, yet somehow irrevocably changed.

Where to Stay, When to Go

The Hotel Hana Maui is the only major resort-style hotel in Hana. Even here, however, where the newer cottages can cost up to $500 a night* and the lobby decor is beautifully sophisticated, there is an appealing rustic aura about the place. We attended the weekly dinner luau, which was charming. Dinner, if not four-star, was very good, and the performers, who all had day jobs at the resort, danced and played from the heart, giving the event a wonderful, homespun feel. The original parts of the resort are in need of a face-lift here and there, but the newer parts really are spectacular -- luxurious plantation-style cottages descending down a long incline, all with ocean views and private access to one of the most beautiful swimming pools anywhere.

For those looking for local color and intimacy, Hana boasts several exquisite small guesthouses. Ekena, for example, has two, two-bedroom Hawaiian-style pole houses with exquisite furnishings and a 360-degree ocean and rainforest view. The unique Hamoa Bay Bungalow, a 600-foot Balinese cottage, complete with hot tub, is decorated with batik prints and giant elephant bamboo furniture from Indonesia. The four units at the Japanese-style Heavenly Hana Inn overlook beautiful art and flower-fillec gardens. Or, for the best deal in the area, consider staying at one of the twelve popular rustic cottages at 120- acre Waianapanapa State Park just to the north of town. These are all very sought-after, so book well in advance. Keep in mind that some places to stay do not accept credit cards.

Since Maui is on the edge of the tropical zone, the weather is generally warm and dry in the summer and warm and rainy November through March. However, even in the rainy season it seldom rains more than three days in a row, and the temperature only varies 15 degrees. The high season is mid-December throuah mid-April. To take advange of the best rates and most reliable weather go off-season in the spring or fall.

For more information contact: Maui Visitors Bureau, 1727 Wili Pa Loop, Wailuku, Maui, Hawaii 96793,800-52 MAUI; or Hawaii Visitors and Convention Bureau.
*prices subject to change